hay my lifters are starting to make that god awful noise. im sure its due to the oil i put into it as its only started to make the sound after oil change.
so im going to do a engine flush and put in some 10w 50 edge. but if that fails it will be new lifters.
i have a mk1 gto , the engine is stock and low milage. whats the best course when looking at buying a set of lifters. do i use gen mitsi one or arftermarket or these 3rd gen lifter kit…?? help please
What oil have you got in there now? Long story short some dodgey tw@ put the wrong oil filter on mine and wedged it at an angle to fit. My oil pressure was running really low. contacted oil man who suggested 10 50 ( no one knew about the oil filter at this point) the filter was discovered at the oil change and the 10 50 added without a thought. Not long after lifter tick was worse at start and also started to do it when hot. As i then knew about the wonky oil filter changed oil and filter again so back to 10 40 again. Put lifter flush in (thread on here) and all is relatively silent. The thicker oil did it no favours @ al. Bar costing me about 150 quid in consumables etc ( no reflection on oilman as no one knew about the filter when i asked for advice). And that was the short version lol!!
I changed my lash adjusters to the 3rd Genny ones, the ticking was annoying, the ‘special’ tool is a bit awkward at first but you do get used to it, now no noise. Filter and Fuchs Racing oil from Rob and no problems. Seems the oil pressure has gone up too, don’t know why, perhaps the oil put in by the original owner was too thick.
Terry 
Even my third gen lifters clack like buggery now but they have done over 70,000 miles without a clean. There is a procedure to clean the lifters whatever gen they are with disel but quite frankly for the price that you can sometimes pick up a set for 2nd hand (but new) I never think it’s worth it.
Don’t use 10w50 it’s too thick! Run some 0w30 (a good one like Redline). You will be amazed that you still have good oil pressure but it will flow much better and if it doesn’t clean out that sticky lifter immediately you should definitely see an improvement within a week.
I have run GTOs from 320-1057 hp on it.
André
Oil man told me to use 10w-50 as well. and surprise surprise it started having noisy lifters… I used some Wynns lifter treatment and that helped but not for long. oil change this weekend back to 10w-40!!
10w 50 and 10w 60 seem to cure the lifter tick for a short while, then it returns, normally when the oil needs a change.
That’s about right there Gavin.
Terry
Is that with first gen or 3rd gen @gavin_naish? On my first gen i had it after hard driving and i think the oil had been in for less than a week. Back to 10 40 and it still clacked when warm for a good 60 miles or so. Put the wynns in and now all clear ( for now lol )
Think it happens quicker on the 1st gen due to the size of the hole, hence the redesign but seems to be happening on my third gen ones now too. I haven’t looked at the techy stuff on the solid ones don’t know if anyone is using them or not.
I am, but they are the internally shimmable ones not the BLE screw type. The screw type can break I have heard. The other thing you need to be mindful off is were your cams designed / made to be used with solid lifters?
Regards the 1st gen / 3 gen lifter thing. ALL are capable of ticking although the later design is more resistant, use a GOOD quality oil with good detergent properties with a high VI, that will thin less with temperature. The 0W30 worked well for both of my cars and stopped lifter tick in my Mk4!!! I don’t know what oil was in it when I got it but within 1 week of switching to Redline 0w30 it completely disappeared. Still had great oil pressure when warm too.
You might find that 10w40 is still a little on the thick side; if you don’t want to go 0w30, try a 0w40 first which is still thinner than a 10w40 by an appreciable amount and has a better VI too. The higher the VI, the less the oil thins with temperature (worth repeating).
Isn’t it interesting how the 0w30 and 0w40 are significantly thinner at 40 degrees than 10w30 and 10w40 oils yet they hold on to their viscosity significantly better at 100 degrees than the ‘thicker 10w30 and 10w40’ oils? This is what the VI or viscosity index is for, to help you choose an oil that will hold on to its viscosity as the oil gets hot.
Just as a point to note, see how lovely and thick the 15w50 and 20w50 oils are, especially at 40 degrees? That will flow round your engine just fine especially at start up…NOT!
Oh, guess what? An oil that flows less should help quieten your noisy hydraulic lash adjusters…how?
André
Indeed Gav, they were made knowing that I would be using solid lifters 
André