Hello, Ive had my gto for approx 8 years I havent driven it that much in the time althought i drove it to Scotland and back. Changed the ECU once when it burnt out, I replaced the 3 capacitors ran nicely for a couple of months then one day I put the key in the ignition turned it on and smoke came up and everything went dead. tried to find out why 1 know the blow out was from ECU terminal 101-103 which is the active aero Im thinking it was the soldering when changed the caps, any way i digress.
The real question is I always drive only reving to about 3000 generally because i dont know the exact mileage and am scared the timing belt might break although it looks ok with no cracks or anything but still. I wantt to know if its a hard job or not and if you can do it with the engine still inside the car. I have look many times and it seems a bit cramped inside the engine bay. I not a mechanic but am mechanical, never replaced a timimg belt but have done heaps of research on it. I was thinking that I would line up all the marks then mark them again and lock the heads cams into place with 4 spanners, 2 together, mark exactly where the cam shaft is then remove and replace the belt. I checked the internet and the prices range wildly, some belts are more expensive than kits with all the tensioners with it. Id replace all the belts at the same time. I am thinking to disconnect an engine mount and then jack it up a bit just for better access. The AC pipework is in the way
You can change it without pulling the engine, just need to take a wheel off and some bits from inside the bay. As far as I know it’s not an easy job but is doable
Cheers Mate thanks for reply, Think i will do it.
Might want to consider doing the water pump at the same time if it’s not been done for a while btw, you can get the stuff you need for belts and pump from evilempire.
yes I was planing on replacing all of the associated parts like auto tensioner etc.
There is a full write up on how to change the belt. It is accessible in the technical area, but only if you are a full member. The best 20 squidlies you’ll ever spend. Oh! and welcome along, should have said that at the beginning There are special tools and for the job, such as cam lockers, crank tool for undoing the bottom pulley etc. If you get a replacement kit from Rob an adjustment tool is included for the tensioner.
Their is quite a few things you will have to remove alternator air con right side engine mount which has a special ream bolt has to be done in sequence as well as putting it back also front wheel main and some wheel covers some wiring also not an easy job do able depending on how well your mechanical skills are done it twice now the trick is asemblin it correctly then dry turning it with a spanner make sure the timing marks align if you have an probs you can always drop us a line have fun at present I have rebuilt these engines twice from the ground up complete so I know where I am coming from cheers Steve
Welcome to the club, please use this section to introduce yourself and your car not for technical posts.
Never removed my alternator or air con, I have a Mk1 so might be different to Mk2
gj1, welcome back to this mighty fold. We’re all daft, but there isn’t a better bunch of enthusiasts in the UK. I read your reintroduction too in a separate thread.
Sounds like you’re handy with a soldering gun, and well done for your work so far. Regarding your proposed cambelt job, you are wise to go ahead and get it replaced, particularly if you have no history of the belt being replaced previously. I think the technical article on the cambelt replacement may be my effort which I posted on this Forum a good few years ago. I keep promising to get the article made over with some decent photos, after many pics were dropped for some reason. You should look to purchase the best quality components for this procedure. Speak to Rob at Evil Empire Performance regarding all the correct parts. Do include a water pump as well as a coolant thermostat with the package. The belt can be replaced without taking the engine out, but over the years I have seen many of these engines out and just how accessible everything is to do the job. A cam locking tool is a really useful aid too (I did my cambelt without one of these and nearly scalped my knuckles a few times when, despite my best efforts to hold the cams still with all sorts of spanners etc they zinged out of timing position). As you have already seen, we are a great and highly knowledgeable bunch, ready to help where we can. Good luck with your new acquisition. Hehe…MK1’s rock…
Sorry but please read the following this is not for technical posts.
This section is for the use of Introduction of a new Member to say ‘Hello’ and generally get to know other Members. The intended use is for research/knowledge for a perspective vehicle purchase and should not be used for technical questions after purchase. FAQ provides a vast amount of technical information should this be required. This section does not allow use of for sale posts. Any such posts will be deleted. Moderation may be implemented should a post not comply with intended use, continued posting on a newbie post or previous paid members using it for free information