Gto problems,need help

Have you opened it up? Im not saying it is the ecu however mine didnt smell. I could see the damage when i split the casings though

To be fair the filters can take some stick! Take in mind my Gto Sat 13years with 20/25ltrs of stale fuel, cleaned out what I could. Changed pump (seized) and the car still hasn’t missed a beat. There is occasionallly some grit stuck on the intank filter but I clean it all out, suck the shite out of the bottom of the tank. It’s never fuel cut or missed, only ever had spark blowout (spark plugs looked like some kind of factory never changed items) lol. Filter is on the cards tho and cars off the road before anyone gives me jip for not changing it. It’s being done when the ACT clutch goes in :grin:

Yes ive opened it,looks ok but who knows,Paul

Do you have an AFR gauge? Would be interesting to see what that’s doing while its coughing. Check timing etc. although with the fact it wouldn’t turn over when hot and the revs died when pressing brake pedal or putting it in reverse I would say its electrical. Is sounds as though you are losing voltage through the rear lights. Stick a volt meter on the battery with the engine running (should see around 13.5V) and then get someone to press the brake pedal and see what the voltage does.

Brake pedal operation could also mean change in vacuum in the manifold the idle stepper motor should’ve accounted for, but didn’t.

coughing, spluttering and revs dying could be crank/cam position sensor i had a similar problem on my evo sudden loss of power lights and needles bouncing around all over the place.

mark

Brake pedal yes but not putting it in reverse. :wink:

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Il shut up haha

Thankyou for your help I will try that and see what happens,cheers Paul

Thankyou Mark,appreciated.Paul

hi again, put ecu back and connected battery back,it fired up alright, but smelt very rich, no smoke though,would the ecu reset anything after battery being reconnected? also I looked inside metal pipes going passed radiator to rear turbo and found oil, not good I guess :dizzy_face:

H

pipes to and from intercoolers have oil in them

Hi Beanus, forgot to mention I had a new{used} feul tank fitted the same time as the rest of work,could that have something to do with power loss and spluttering?? sorry to be a pain to everyone but ive no idea about these cars,Cars in general really :confused:

Depends on weather the fuel pump was okay and not blocked or anything. Do you know if it was cleaned out and checked or just bolted straight up. It shouldn’t make a difference unless the filter in the tank has a hole in it and a piece of sludge got in.

Not sure,i assumed it would’ve been cleaned out, I bought the tank off of petermartin,it was in very good condition and had no problems for at least 2 months,so not sure,it had been refuelled several times aswell?
thanks again Beanus. Paul.

Have you tried a compression test at all?

no mate,not yet

Ecu’s often do strange things when they go in these. Mine had very little symptoms and then just stopped starting with no smell. I could see a small blob of silicon on one of the caps so maybe mine didnt blow enough to hit the pcb and smell as much as some of the others… ECU doctor will test it for you unless there is someone near you with a known working ecu.

But i would check all the free stuff first that you can if you still suspect the ecu or recheck and notice a slight fracture send it off to them

Hi did
you get to the bottom of your problem.

Hi, yes thanks, Ben Costello did a compression test and regapped plugs ,but had to get another alternator from Neil,runs sweet now,but still have bluey grey smoke when decelerating,but not accelerating,bit weired,probably nothing to worry about,just annoying and abit embarrassing sometimes :confused:

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