Help! Rear N/S Hub removal?

Hiya, I’m trying to remove my rear hub and I can’t figure it out for the life of me? I can’t find any info online as to how to remove it either? Could someone kindly point me in the right direction please…would be most appreciated. Thanks, Jason.

which bit the whole thing, the wheel bearing or the brake drum etc etc?

Hiya, I’ve removed the caliper, disk and shoes I need to remove the bearing and hub to replace them as the guy who fit my tyres threaded the wheel nuts on and ruined the studs. I’m going to change the rear bearings whilst I’m repairing the damage from the garage. Thanks

Big nut at the back of the hub on the inside , they can be a right bitch to undo too , under the car job if your on stands .

Check the shaft that the bearings sit on , as if the bearings are worn the inner races pick up and spin and damage the shaft

Craig :grinning:

i struggled to get a long enough bar on that nut on the ground, anyway eventually did it, then needed a slide hammer to get the bearing out. not easy with the room available and without a slide hammer. Studs should be able to be knocked out or you can replace the whole unit.

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Nice one guys…cheers. The cars on stands - I was out in the rain all day yesterday changing my breaks and lowering the car 35mm…can imagine how peed off I was to get to the back to find my brand new alloy scratched up and the nuts chewed :confounded: now I don’t have a car for a few days til the new parts arrive.

Hi

Sorry for renewing this thread, save me from starting a new one! Im also doing the same thing removing and replacing the whole rear hub assembly. Ive undone the 4 bolts to the flange and pulled back the rubber boot - is that where the centre nut is that I have to undo? Also what size it and is it recessed etc (hits/tips appreciated!)

Thanks for any help you can give.

Simon.

Only just realised that’s my old n/a in this post.

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Is there any help anywhere on this at all please? Really appreciate any pointers who done the job… any diagrams for the nut I’m supposed to be undoing?

you have to take the driveshaft off to see the nut i have taken one of mine out but not taken any photos of it i left the nut on the end and used a bit of wood as a drift when tapping the shaft out as not to damage the threads came out fairly easily :slight_smile:

mark

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@gavin_naish @Paulw @CDMH
Someone help the man.
I beat the crap out of the rear bearing assembly on my breaker and couldn’t get it to ■■■■■■ move. Literally took a sledge hammer to it and all I succeed in doing was ruining the bleedin thing. (Probably beat it the wrong way knowing me!)

Can be an absolute ■■■■■■■ to undo , even with a scaff tube on some are solid , leverage is the problem as said above .

Got no pictures but it will be in the manual , been years since I attempted one

Craig :grinning:

Remove and support the brake caliper.

Remove the baking plate

Undo the 4 bolts securing the driveshaft in, and knock them out.

Once thats done you should be able to knock the driveshaft out.

I think its something like a 30 or 32mm nut on the inside, needs a good bit of leverage, so you need something to wedge the hub to the floor, like a strong long piece of metal, then you can get a breaker bar (plus some more length) and a large heavy person to crack the nut off.

Then remove the cover thingy.

Next up knock the stub shaft out, mine was without abs, this is the real pain in the arse bit, with some penetrating spray to help as it can get rusted or set in with heat. This is where you’ll need the slide hammer or suitable alternative as you’re pushing the stub out towards you in a confined space so cant get a good whack on it if you’re working on the ground, having it in the air makes it much easier. You don’t want to destroy the thread end of the hub either, as thats another headache to fix.

Once its out you should then have access to the bearings, thats all i can remember though.

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Chers guys

IT was a 30mm nut all looking lovely now with new backplate on and new brake shoes.

BTW once I undid thos 4 bolts I just gave it a good whack and the CV joint separated just fine!

Thanks again.
Simon.