New clutch / flywheel...... Adjustment help

Hi, not sure if this is in the correct section…? Didn’t seem to have much choice…! If it’s wrong could someone please point me in the right direction.

Anyway. When I bought my gto (mk1 91 twin turbo import) I new the clutch was on its last legs as the bite point was right at the top… Day 2 I lost the pedal… Turned out that the bleed nipple came loose, so I bled it back up and all was working again… But bite still at the top of the pedal… Day 5 drove to show her off to my buddy n the clutch finally gave up… Got recovered home…

So, Jack her up on axle stands box out, new clutch, back together again… Simple… Not! . I should say here that the car is stock and have gone for stock clutch kit (exeddy). Started her up, smiling cuz she is now fixed, pop it into gear and my smile quickly disappears as the bite point is still right at the top of the pedal.

So I pull out the workshop manuals and make the adjustments to the pedal and master cylinder/booster. I Can change the height of the pedal but I just tend to make a lot of free play at the top with the bite point still just off the top of where the pedal starts to feel the resistance…

So I was sure the flywheel had worn… So, yep you guessed it, axle stands, box out new flywheel and another new clutch (warranty as tob was noisy) I have put a Fidanza flywheel in…

So to end this story, I can’t seem to make all the right adjustment… It just seems that you only have to breathe on the pedal for the clutch to dissengage and this just doesn’t feel right. At the moment there is no more adjustment left on the booster rod and is as tight as can be and the pedal is at the height specified in the manual. I can lower the pedal but just gives me more free play before resistance. I can’t seem to get the bite point and the pedal height where they need to be as specified in the manual.

Could someone please help ad this is driving me crazy… Hopefully I’m just making a slight error somewhere and is just a simple “oh have you done…” solution.

Thanks in advance


Many of us who have replaced clutches or flywheels have usually encountered a problem when adjusting the clutch pedal rod mechanism, and ended up with an unusual take up point., you ain’t alone.

A previous post about this was put on the Forum, and a Youtube post accompanied that. I think it explains how best to tackle this phenomenon. It’s an american thread, and I found it really useful.

Try youtube, thread by “jackstransmissions” on proper clutch adjustment. Sorry, I haven’t a clue how to attach that link to this, but you’ll find it I’m sure. The video is roughly 9 mins long.

Good luck with it. BTW…check you’ve also bled the damper leg if you have one (mounted on the front of the gearbox.


Thanks Mike, yeah I’ve seen that video and it is very helpful but with all the YouTube videos and posts in forums I can’t seem to change the bite point…! Really frustrating but I’m kinda starting to think that this could just be how my clutch is… Just really don’t fancy dropping the box back out just yet… It’s ■■■■■■ cold out there

OK fella, it was worth a try at least. Not many of us persevere on a job like that as you have - well done. I encountered exactly the same thing when I replaced my clutch and had my flywheel machined. The Youtube videos are interesting in that they highlight the need to get every ounce of air out of the slave cylinder first, before attempting to bleed the master. There is another “damper” leg on mine which also needed a bleed. In the end the bite point was returned to a more comfortable point after many an attempt at pushrod/clutch pedal adjustment.
Well, good luck with all your efforts.

Seeing as you fitted a new flywheel and it still had a high bite point even after fiddling with bleeding and adjustments I would suggest the master or slave cylinders are at fault or you have a bent clutch release bearing fork. Failing that the only thing that can cause a high biting point barring from a worn clutch is the two step height of the flywheel not within spec.