Hey all. I’m just wondering what the most basic/cheapest FRONT disc brake and pads set is for the 1st gen 3KGT/GTO with the 4 pot Sumitomo calipers (where the disc is 297mm). So far I have found this brake disc set and this brake pad set . Do you think this is the correct setup? Is there a better alternative in terms of price? I am not looking for upgraded performance, just new stuff close to OEM.
Alternatively, if anyone has lightly used but good discs and pads, feel free to P.M me with your offer (UK only).
Thanks. The thing is, I don’t have a GTO. What I do have is a Mitsubishi Eclipse and I have some GTO calipers which I am planning on putting on, hence why I also need to get some discs and pads. I don’t know much about these cars in particular, so hopefully someone can chime in and help out.
there are two sizes of calipers early ones I believe are 297 mm and later ones are 313mm that’s for the front the rears are different sizes too 287(I think) and ? For the other.
Disks you can buy from evilempire,amber performance,ebc,stoptech etc all depends how much you want to spend.
Jerry
Yes I am aware of the need for brackets. I’m a regular on the other forums and have recently been reading up but some info is contradicting and old. The Eclipse uses the same upright(knuckle) as a Galant but the caliper mounting bolts are spaced 130mm apart whereas GTO calipers are 160mm. I will be making my own bracket to adapt so that’s fine.
Why do you think the items I linked wont work for a GTO/3000GT? I checked on EBC’s catalogue and the OEM-replacement style disc is a D888, 297mm diameter.
Hello again. I’d rather update this thread than open a new one.
So basically the calipers I bought came without the sliding pins for the brake pads. I decided to make my own as I have access to a machine shop. Based on the holes in the calipers, the pin is 6.50mm and the head is slightly bigger (8-9mm). Overall length is roughly 112mm. I just wanted to ask you guys if you know how snug or loose they actually are in the caliper? Are they meant to be tight in there without moving, or somewhat loose?
I’m making them out of normal grade steel and the first one turned out alright. Just wanted to get more info on this if possible.
Oh god this is where I have to stick my secretary sensible hat on again
Within gtouk full membership there is a mass of technical advice and posts, the membership helps to pay to run our lovely site hence new members can see newbie threads to introduce themselves and get a feel for our community.
All new members are welcome and we love to see what your up to, however I recommend for £20 the information in these pages is priceless.
Thanks… sensible Dave ( the non sensible one is contained in full membership section)
And I was wondering why this site was so nice. I wasn’t aware of the membership. Unfortunately I’m a poor college student trying to get by (e.g trying to make my own pins instead of spending 40 for all four) etc. If posting things like this here is somewhat frowned upon, I can stop. I just wanted some quick info as I do not own a GTO myself.
The forum is much more than you can see as a general member,full membership opens up all the tekky sections,from what ive seen posted regarding the pins most people who remove them to change pads etc usually have to hammer the things out so i would say there a pretty snug fit
Thanks for this! I guess over time they do seize up and get rusty so that could be a factor too. But they aren’t really a load bearing element so I guess snug should be fine.
Now the last piece of the puzzle is to find +38 offset wheels as mine are too inward and don’t clear the calipers!
Word of advise if you can’t afford 40 pounds pins I’m afraid your not going to cope with this type of car(not just gto but any car of this era)as maintaining these cars can cost quite a bit of dosh.
I wouldn’t scrimp on things like brakes they are the only thing from you getting home safe or ending up in a very bad situation or even worse.not trying to scare you but we shouldn’t even encourage you to do this.just buy the proper ones or just sell it and buy a fiesta then when you start earning buy one and maintain it as it should.we all scrimp but me personally I never scrimp on brakes,suspension etc.
Sorry to be blunt but might help you consider doing the right thing.
Jerry
Thanks all for the advice. I ended up machining 4 pins, cut a slot for a flathead in order to rotate them and drilled holes for where the pin goes to hold them in place. They ended up quite nice.
I would like to mention that this is not just about saving 40 quid. I am at Uni at the moment and there are lots of machinery at our disposal and I just want to learn more and get some experience. Making these bits was simple enough but also proved to be helpful. (P.S I also refuse to pay for something which I think cost too much for what it is), so it’s a matter of principle as well.
The car I actually own is a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX, a.k.a poor man’s 3000GT. It’s a great platform and I am proud to say that over the last year I have resurrected this car from absolute disaster. I am at the point where upgrades can start to be put on the car, and I decided to start with one of the most important things, i.e brakes.
I am well aware of how costly these 90s Japanese cars can be, I am already over 6 grand in it (including price of car and parts/maintenance). But knowing when to save money or do something yourself is also quite important and I am also aware of the risks.
P.S: I will never drive anything else, especially not a Fiesta! Although I may pick up a Stealth one day as a weekend car
Me again, just one last piece of the puzzle is left. I am looking for the two anti-squeal shims that go on behind each brake pad on the front calipers. So in total there should be 8 pieces (4 of each). I looked over Ebay but could not find any, neither new nor used.
Does anyone happen to have a set? Are they really crucial? I’m guessing they reduce the braking noise and heat a little.
EDIT: I just saw that EvilEmpirePerformance sells the kit.
