Gto owner. Maybe?


I don’t think miles as such is a problem a higher one may have already had stuff done a lower one has not quite got to so then could cost more in the short term, ie cambelt and tensioner etc
Mechanically how it sounds, (lifter tick is common, no big deal comes and goes), what is like for drivetrain and suspension clonks, and how it drives, steers, brakes like any car. Most have a few internal squeaks and rattles and l find it a bit of a quest to find and sort them.
But overall biggest question in my book is rust around the rear inner wings and floor, behind the plastic bumper cover and reear of the sills then floorpan to bulkhead joints, which go “puffy”.
A Sr is a non turbo with bits removed and an Mr is a tt with bits removed, l like them, both are a bit lighter than cars which are full spec and l think a bit more sprightly.
A good Sr could not be too big money to buy and a nice drive, 5 speed or auto, the tt giving that bit more when you feel like it.


Thanks Jerry that’s interesting, you have me a little worried about rust now and those areas you mentioned seem to be all out of sight behind wheel arch liners etc… Not every seller would have access to a lift either.
You’re right about the non tubo cars they are a lot cheaper and do look the same , cheaper car leaves more room for mods too. I have never driven either.
What is my best approach regarding the rust and how to properly check a car.


Look up underneath where the aerial is and look up at that piece of panel work, most cars that have been in the uk will have at least some surfce rust on the panel joints but a clean down and treat should sort that , you want to try and make syre everything is solid, you should be able to get your head under the rear plastic bumper cover and shine a light up there.
Then look around the fuel tank look at the rhs under wing area, not usualy as bad as the left. (Its due to the water drains and aerial seal not working properly and letting the water in and causing the rust.
The drains are the holes you see either side when you raise the rear hatch.
Look at where the plastic bumper cover attaches at the bottom with plastic clips and from behind that panel.
Look at the rear of the sills behind the plastic and then back at them from under the car and look up at the area above there, on the rhs you can look at the brake and fuel lines. There are rear steering pump lines on both sides on a rear steer car as well.
For the floor joints look for the seam before the floor turns up as the bulkhead at the back you will see a suspension mounting point look around there, at the front you will see three jigging holes in the floor (why they are left open l do not know???)
Those seams can expand and rust along and you can have holes in the floor that will need patching.
lf you can look inside check the seam in front of the back seats and if you can get into the boot the plastic trays under the cover are held by a few self tappers, 2 minutes to lift out then there are access panels both sides to check inside the rear wings.
You will find on a car thats been in the uk that the chassis components will look rusty to some degree, not normally a big deal, some do a restore powder coat etc but you can have a go on the car just a bit awkward to get at, same as any car.
One thing l always do is replace the window trims they smarten the car and old ones go stiff and get full of grit and scratch the glass. Not cheap but well worth it l reckon.
Well hope thats not too much and don,t be put of they are fab cars, its just to make sure as much as poss you have one with a decent structure, 20 plus years old after all.
There are some really good build threads on here that show before photos and after so try and pick up on them, some of the members are doing some incredible builds. Markie and Jensen to name but two.
Good luck.


You did ask lol


Can’t ask for any more than that, thanks very much Jerry. I’m going go have to take the next step and go and look at some cars . I think I’ll steer clear of the non turbo, even though I know they probably had an easier life and are a lot cheaper, I just feel I’d only be luke warm towards it.
Might start with the one with 150k on it . It’s in northern Ireland.


First thing I can say is don’t look at the mileage as it’s about as useful indicator to a car’s condition and value as the brand of windscreen wipers you use.

Old cars like the GTO/3000GT are all about ownership history and rust levels.

A ‘fresh import’ is likely to have suffered far less corrosion than a car that’s been sitting in the UK for the past 10+ years, but they now cost a fair chunk more, history can be a bit dubious, and you will be buying blind.

Good luck with your search in any case!


Thanks Anh


have you had a look at some of the members cars ?

just i got my gto from a member so dont have to worry about its past :slight_smile:


Hi Guys, I have came across a non-running car very close to me . Lot of money spend , lots of receipts , cam belt done etc…
His mechanic has started the car by " connecting a booster pack" and drove fine until it was switched off. Now only turns over , spark and fuel both present.
When it does run has a mis-fire ( at low speeds I think). This is being blamed on airflow metre, not sure about that.
There is an offer already on the car of 4300euro, about 4k sterling.
Very nice looking car TT. Cam belts were only changed 50 miles before no starting issue appeared.
Any thoughts would be great.


Did they tell you that an offer has been tabled, a good old selling ploy to make you panic and think ‘I don’t want to miss this’, offer more money, only to be dragged into buying something that could cost you dearly.

Be careful, sounds like you desperately want one of these cars, so be really careful.

Terry :sunglasses:


Hi Terry,
Not desperate as such, not in any particular hurry but until this one came up I was resigned to travel to the UK. This car ticks all boxs in relation to spec etc, and is only 30 mins up the road,.
I’m not considering purchasing without hearing her run so I’m hoping his mechanic van recreate what ever bypass he did before to start her and that should also give me some indication of where problems lie. Maybe.


Cars in perfect running order struggle to sell at that price and this one has an offer of 4k and not running right.
For me it’s a bit fishy


Not running at all, think I’m being wooed at how close and handy it is. You can see the car on , Search for Mitsubishi gto, there’s only a couple on it.


Which one Is it? Had a look and there is four coming up.
Can you get a link on here?
Jerry :grinning:



It looks like it’s been maintained at least on the outside its got some tasty parts like the kaze quad headlights, alloys etc,he may looked after it but again maybe he is selling it due to hidden gremlins that perhaps he can’t or afford to fix anymore or it might be an easy fix. Who knows.the question is are you willing to take a punt for 4k?because it’s near you.
Tell him fix the issue first then perhaps there is a deal to be had.
Jerry :grinning:


At the end of the why go for one that has few issues and it’s not running and at this price ?


I know someone up north that’s selling a nice 3000gt ,can only go up in value hes looking for offers over 5k


Hi Guys , I agree with everything you’re saying.Spiros , when you say up north , are you referring to Northern ireland?


Scott means North of Scotland !