What is the CAS?
Crank/cam angle sensor , on your MKI it will be bolted to the rear head , throttle body end
Craig 
It does sound like the engine is flooding with fuel actually. When it is left for a while (especially when you had the plugs out) the fuel had a chance to evaporate. Injectors might be leaky or as others have said timing.
Right I have had cam covers off and took a few pictures from when I cranked the engine over. The first picture is when I tried to get the markings on the gears as close to the triangle and square marks on the valve cover:
They look to be almost aligned when close to the markings on the value cover. This picture shows that the gear markings are facing away from each other which I believe is how they are suppose to be:
I have found the black test cable/connector near windscreen wiper plug so I am going to wire this up to a lose plug which looks to be connected to the battery but is just dangling with a rubber thing on the end.
Facing away from each other definitely isnt how they are supposed to be you were right first time using the marks on the cam covers , you need to check the timing marks on the crank pulley too , if they all line up your ok if not then youve slipped timing and probably bent a couple of valves , there are cases where peoples timing has slipped and avoided damage but they are extremely lucky
looking at that tbh your timing is out , how many times did you rotate the engine to get them to try and line up ? please also say you rotated it clockwise
Craig
I just literally turned the engine over with the key I can’t think of a more accurate way of rotating the engine without actually moving the car. When I almost got it close to the marks on the cam covers they both looked like they where close to the marks.
if you remove the passenger side front wheel then the inspection cover in the arch liner you can put a square drive into the end of the crankshaft bolt and rotate the engine that way
Craig
Big help thank you. I did this and I rotated clockwise until the gear marks where marked up with the valve cover marks. I noticed that the first gear facing you on the front bank was out by a tooth but the rest where inline. How difficult will it be to correct this?
I suspect this is why it wasn’t firing up as the V6 requires accurate opening and closing of ports at the correct time. Not looking forward to correcting this haha.
There’s an easy way which I’ve been doing when timing is wind a bank card into the cam by turning crank once belt is lifted of cam move with a 17mm spanner in the direction needed then wind card out and check
I will give that a try thanks
Of course there is.
Give it to somewhere like Eurospec, who know what they are doing.
While advice on a forum is great, it is no substitute for really knowing what you are doing.
It sounds to me like you have bought a non runner, without the required knowledge to turn it into a runner.
Now, don’t get me wrong, you will get help here, but what it really needs is a professional opinion. This is not something that can be sought over the internet, and fault diagnosis this way is guesswork, at best.
You will end up chasing your tail, spending lots of money, unneccesarily, when a proper GTO garage will diagnose it quickly, and get it on the road, or at least let you know what the problem is, and this will probably be the cheapest route for you.
Sometimes there really is no substitute.
I have seen it many time before…oh, it’s the ECU-£200, nope, that didn’t fix it, coils £150, Nope, HT leads £80, Nope, PTU £120, Nope,etc etc, etc…owner gets p****d off, understandably, and sells car.
I have said it before, many times. Fault diagnosis is a technical skill. It requires knowledge of how things should work. It is not something that can be gleaned from seeking advice over the internet, however well intentioned. Replacing things on ‘speculation’ is both time consuming, expensive, and extremely unlikely to fix the fault.
Check things by all means, but I would avoid spending money, until you can prove a fault with the part concerned.
Marty
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I have to agree with Marty here, my mates N/A Auto stopped working, tried to ask around for reasons and a cure, in the end took it to someone who knew GTO’s and they fixed it.
Still have to ask him what was wrong, he’s been on holiday and now I’m on holiday so I guess I’ll find out sooner rather than later.
Terry 
Terry, I am not saying the forum cannot be a big help in fault finding. It certainly can.
However, there is a huge difference between a car stopping working, and purchasing a non runner.
It could have missing parts, multiple issues.
I have recovered non runners myself, and it really is a case of plodding through each system, one step at a time, checking a rechecking, until you have done everything.
Only then will you know it is sorted.
It is time consuming, and requires skill and knowledge.
With a faulty car, you can usually point a way forward fairly easily, but a newly purchased non runner is different.
Marty
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That’s why I’m taking so long trying to get the one I have running, there are issues, but as I’ve already said, if I can’t get it running or if the engine is no good I will break it. I will get it running though. What concerns me most though after going through all the boxes, I find this weekend, loads of hacked off wiring looms for the ECU. I must add here though, what Gavin was doing with these loom bits is a bit of a mystery as the original loom looks spot on, just have to connect up the ECU which has been away to the ‘Doctor’.
Sorry to hijack your thread @peterheywood708
Terry
For me its more of a project to get it going and learn a bit more about mechanics. I already have a car on the road but it would be nice to get this one going as well without having to take it to a garage. I will take it to a garage if I cant figure how the non starting issue however I have a hunch it is the fuel pump that is to blame.
Going to test the fuel pump with the test port near the windscreen wiper motor and see if I hear the pump running and FPR working.
Have you tried squirting a little gas into the intake?
if the car starts to jump into life a little then it’s the fuel pump.
This method is good for finding air leaks too.
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Having connected a 12v wire from battery to the fuel test port with a cable I made I can hear the FPR working and also the fuel pump humming in the boot so I can tick this off what needs to be looked at.
It did start for a second then went back to crank mode so its figuring out what is causing the engine to stall. I don’t think it will be the ECU as that looks to be in tact and the Check Engine light disappears from the dash after 3 seconds when the ignition is turned to on.
Also with the timing being of by a single tooth on one of the cams I would of thought that the engine would still turn over.
Do you have a fuel pressure gauge to check the FPR is holding the right pressure?
Hello all,
A big thanks to everyone who has helped me so far as you have helped me a lot about diagnosing my engine. Today I have been digging deeper in to the spark side of things as I only tested the one spark plug before and not all 6.
I have been starting at the coil ignition pack on the side of the engine and unplugging each coil lead while turning engine over. When cranking the engine I heard a arching/clicking sound coming from the exposed ignition coil distributer on numbers 1,3,5 and 6 however it was very silent on number 2 and 4 which suggests it is not producing anything to the spark plug. This marries up with the engine being flooded theory as the fuel isn’t being ignited in those cylinders.
I would imagine the reason why the engine starts for a second then cuts out is because that fuel has evaporated in the cylinders over night when I try the car the next day. I would imagine that the Coil ignition pack would have to be replaced as a whole unit 
We run wasted spark on these so its possible your coil pack is down for those two cylinders as its done in pairs , before spending any money though swap the coilpacks over and see if your fault moves
Craig